Tools to remove bolts in tight places

Farmers can overcome the frustrating job of loosening a nut or bolt in a tight spot with a range of specialist hand tools. Sometimes it seems manufacturers fail to consider service access when designing machinery.

Difficult-to-access areas are often too tight to fit a hand, let alone a spanner as well. Specialist hand tools may seem expensive but they can prove invaluable of a wide range of servicing tasks.

In some cases, manufacturers may even supply specialist service tools for their particular machinery. This article gives farmers an outline of useful tools and is not an endorsement for any particular tool or product.

One of the cheapest and most useful accessories for any toolbox is a selection of socket extensions. They can be bought separately from socket sets and joined together to form long extensions to reach into impossible places to loosen troublesome bolts. Universal joints are essential when there is an obstruction preventing access to a nut or bolt.

But avoid using them when undoing extremely tight bolts as they can break. Another option is a wobble bar. Apart from being stronger than universal joints, they can get into even more obstructed places.

They can be combined with a range of socket drive accessories to increase their versatility. Tube sockets are ideal for tightening or loosening nuts when a large amount of thread is exposed.

Normal sockets will accommodate only a short amount of exposed thread before they are unable to grip the nut. Tube sockets are also handy in situations where a small extension is needed. Cap screw sockets have an Allen-key head and are used mainly for tightening and loosening head studs in engines.

They allow a torque wrench to be used for precision tightening. Offset screwdrivers and screwdriver socket attachments are handy for screws with limited access.

Although they allow more leverage on a screw than a traditional screwdriver, it is difficult to maintain downward pressure, which is essential to stop slippage and damage to the screw head Stubby combination spanners are ideal for working in confined spaces.

It is often better to attempt to loosen tight bolts with a longer spanner first, even if only a fraction of a turn is possible. Due to the short length of the stubby spanners, they have a force disadvantage but will make the removal of a bolt quicker as they allow a higher degree of movement in tight places. Tube spanners will get a better grip on a bolt than an open-end spanner. The handle can be swivelled after the bolt is loosened to hasten its removal. Good quality open-end spanners will have slimmer heads such as the one in the centre.

Poor quality spanners have larger heads to make up for a lack of material strength. Slimmer heads such as the middle spanner will allow slightly more rotation of the bolt when working in access-limited areas The size of the step or offset of a ring spanner can make a difference in tricky jobs.

Flare nut spanners are essential to prevent damage when removing or tightening flare nuts on brake and fuel lines. Shallower offsets also allow greater force to be applied without the spanner slipping off. Flare nut spanners act like a ring spanner with a cut-away section allowing the spanner to be placed over the pipe.

Ratchet ring and combination spanners are convenient for most jobs as they combine spanner and socket characteristics in one tool.

They are handy when there is insufficient room above a bolt to use a socket and ratchet and sideways movement is limited. The ratchets have fine increments allowing fractional turns in limited spaces, which would become tiresome if using an open-end or ring spanner. A set is expensive.

Cheaper box-style ratchet ring spanners are bulky and not worth owning as they are not useful in tight spaces.These methods contain both simple options, and some that use luxurious tools such as an impact gun or welder. Did you use this instructable in your classroom?

Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson. Start by rocking the bolt by tightening then loosing, this may be all you need to break through the rust. Try and avoid point wrenches and sockets as they likely to slip and strip the bolt head.

Found here. This tool has been a life saver for me! It has removed the worst brake bleeder screws I have seen! It works on rounded fasteners too. This beast can be tightened so much, that it will WARP the nut! These have been in my box now and will not be leaving any time soon! They have a parrot beak shaped jaw allowing 3 sides of contact without marring up the corners of a hex fastener! Neat, Isn't it?? Take a wire brush and clean the bolt of loose rust and dirt.

Apply oil to the bolt and threads, covering it completely, then give it some time to work; I prefer to spray it every hour for 2 hours. It may work quicker or longer then that stated time, that is my preference. Again, rock it in and out to break that binding force. Our next step is to use leverage to remove that stubborn bolt. Beware, rusted bolts and cheaper tools could possibly break and really screw you over. The best way to get some leverage is by using what is called a Breaker Bar, a long handled socket wrench without a ratchet mechanism.

The longer lever will allow you to exert more force by being able to lean into it AND have excellent leverage, this will multiply your strength on the bolt. A lot of times, this will work for you. Another way to get leverage is to use your wrench or socket wrench and add a pipe over the handle as an extension. However, the wrong tool for the job could hurt you. I suggest you do it right and buy a breaker bar. Beware, at this point if your bolt is beginning to feel "soft" it may be twisting and about to break.

At this point, the bolt may still not budge. I bet your getting frustrated, Right? Our next step is to use a torch to heat the bolt up. The idea is to have one side of our bolt expand from the heat and break the rust.

This can be easily done with a small propane torch. Be careful, this method WILL ruin the heat treatment on stronger bolts. Heat it up as hot as you can get it without melting the bolt. Remove the heat and let cool or pour warm water on the bolt to speed up cooling.

Once it is cool, try out the breaker bar again.

tools to remove bolts in tight places

With any luck, The heat has broken the rust seal on the bolt allowing it to turn. Since we have the propane torch out, we can also add candle wax to the stuck bolt threads.

Apply a paraffin candle to the cool side of the nut, this will allow the paraffin a lubricating wax to be drawn toward the heat through the threads allowing you to unscrew the nut hopefully. If that has failed, our last attempt to do this without harming the nut and bolt is to treat it with another penetrating agent one last time. However, this time we will mix up our own.By using our site, you acknowledge that you have read and understand our Cookie PolicyPrivacy Policyand our Terms of Service.

tools to remove bolts in tight places

It only takes a minute to sign up. Recently I replaced a faucet in the kitchen, but there is not enough room to fasten two nuts. These are not the nuts on the end of the supply lines; they thread onto studs to hold the faucet down. They're too close to the supply lines to be able to grab.

How can I fasten nuts without calling a plumber? Is there a specific tool to achieve this or something else? Pic 1 : These are the nuts. At the moment, they have been tightened just by hand:.

How To Remove a Rounded Nut From a Tight Space: Best Methods

Pic 2 : As I said before, there is really not so much room to tighten due to sinks and pipes. As for pipes, they are almost attached to the nuts, hence a basin wrench is not the best option, in my opinion:.

Pic 3 : This is a detail from the faucet assembly instructions that shows a better perspective. A basin wrench is NOT the correct tool to try to tighten the faucet mount nuts that you show in your pictures.

Due to the nature of the valve construction another type of tool is called for to tighten these.

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The tool will look like a hex socket end but is able to slide up over the long mounting stud to engage the nut. Tools of this nature are often made of plastic and included in the faucet kit.

Included tools of course are manufacturer specific. Here is a picture of a generic version of this tool which can be purchased from Home Depot. To add to the tools that can be used in this situation is the crowfoot.

Use it with an extension and a ratchet. After some time looking for a proper solution, the only one I come up with is using a tubular wrench, and sawing the threaded supports that were too long.

Maybe not the smartest workaround, but surely this faucet lacks a good design for assembling it. These are some tubular wrenches similar to the one I used:. I had an idea that worked for me. I made spacers from steel brake line, and used a socket to tighten the nuts in a more convenient place for me. I have a solution The problem is the lock nut to hold the faucet in place.

If this nut can be small enough to just pass through the hole in the sink then it can be on the faucet ring of pipe. A flexible rubber washer can be used between the nut and the underneath of the sink. This will allow the tightening of the nut to prevent leakage of the water first then the assembly pass from the top and the nut together with the flexible washer can be hand tightened to prevent the faucet from spinning.

tools to remove bolts in tight places

Since the faucet takes very little pressure to open and close or turning force Sign up to join this community. The best answers are voted up and rise to the top. Home Questions Tags Users Unanswered.

How to remove a rounded nut or bolt- 5 different ways

How can I fasten nuts in narrow places when installing a faucet?Skip to main content Rounded Bolt Remover. In Stock. This is the second set I'm getting, the first was lost, stolen or walked on its own.

When you need these extractors there is nothing else that will do, and the work very very well. This set is bigger than the first set I "lost"the Erwin set only had half the sizes, and you need the exact size, this has both MM and Inches.

This is a must for anyone who does any wrenching. Add to cart. I ordered this set because I needed a socket to remove a seized oil drain plug I did not want to remove the entire oil pan. The plug seems to be made of soft metal so it got rounded after the last oil change too much torque. After three attempts the 13mm piece did the job. I have to confess that I wasn't a believer but now I'm satisfied and happy.

It saved me a lot of time. These work great my advice would be if you slightly rounded a head or you feel it is gonna strip that's when you use these. If you strip the bolt to bits they won't work. They are still very worth it and up the chances of getting a bolt out.

It's really another trick up your sleeve along with a torch and pb blast. Currently unavailable. My husband had been looking for bolt remover tool. He had been looking for one. He found this Go2 socket adjustable bolt remover tool. He is now in 7th heaven. He has used it several times and he is very happy with this purchase. Thank you again for your fast service. See All Buying Options.

Real time saver and worked like a charm on a stripped 5mm hex head screw. Tapped in easily in a tight space where a drill would not fit. Worked in 10 seconds on a screw that held up a motorcycle project and frustrated me for 2 days. The time it took to order and receive this set Not only removed the stripped screw easily, but bit so hard into the metal I had to use vise grip pliers to get the extracted screw off the end of my extractor. I'll try tapping even lighter next time. Contains a good variety of sizes which are stamped legibly on the product.

Only Fractional sizes are stamped, but product works on metric as well. Made in America quality and big money saver considering time factor and other expensive alternatives. Highly recommend.A basic socket set and pair of screwdrivers will get you through most basic backyard jobs — oil and plug changes, replacing a headlight.

Or makes the job a lot harder and more time-consuming that it needs to be. Here are some specialty tools I keep in my toolbox that have made life a lot easier for me over the years. They could do the same for you, too! But sometimes, the path to the fastener you need to reach is not quite straight.

For instance, there may be a brake line partially blocking your path; or the frame rail is in the way. That, in turn, puts the socket on the fastener unevenly — if you can get it on at all. Stripped threads and even broken studs can happen this way. The wobble extender has a tapered head that allows the socket to well, wobble, slightly — correcting for misalignments that would otherwise make trouble for you as you work to remove and re-install bolts in hard to reach places. The knurling provides more grip and makes it easier to manipulate the bars by touch if you need to.

These combination wrenches are just like regular combination wrenches; three-point open ended on one end, 12 point closed end on the other. But they are about half the overall length of standard combination wrenches.

But not if you have some crow foot wrenches. These are hybrids tools that combine the form of an open-end wrench and the function of a socket. The range of motion becomes 90 degrees — and vertical rather than horizontal — allowing you to apply a lot of force to the wrench in places where it would otherwise be super hard to even get a wrench on the fastener, let alone get any torque on it.

The head of the tool is also unique. A hemostat looks like a pair of scissors, except that the blades have been replaced with locking clamps. Surgeons use hemostats to stop bleeding arteries — but you can use them to temporarily clamp a disconnected fuel or brake hose — or just hold something in place while you fiddle with your now-free hands. Hemostats come with both curved and straight ends, in a variety of lengths and sizes. A two or even three foot section of sturdy hollow pipe steel or PVC works, etc.

Someday, it might come in extremely handy. With so many small plastic fasteners in use today, the Grabber can be a godsend. Join today and get these great benefits! Search: Search. Search the NMA Website. National Motorists Association Blog. By Eric Peters, Automotive Columnist A basic socket set and pair of screwdrivers will get you through most basic backyard jobs — oil and plug changes, replacing a headlight.

Not an NMA Member yet? The Corona Special. Join the NMA and become an agent of change for the motoring public:. Auto Tech Watch. Car of the Future. Driving in America.Ok, so you somehow rounded a bolt or fastener and it is in a tight spot. You are having trouble getting access to it and want to know how the professionals attack rounded bolts and nuts in tight spaces?

You came to the right place because I also wanted to be sure I knew all the strategies to remove rounded bolts and nuts in tight spaces. So, I did a TON of research and came up with the post of all the best ways to remove rounded fasteners on cars and trucks.

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Really these are all methods you should know. These are all the tools you should have in your toolbox. Methods change depending on access and where the rounded bolt is located. As always with car repair, common sense is worth more than a big bag of tools. Basically, if you are able to fit a socket on the bolt then the absolute best method is to use these damaged fastener type sockets they make specifically for removing rounded nuts and bolts.

Get it flush with the bolt then remove as you normally would. Using an impact wrench is best just be gentle with the trigger to avoid shearing the bolt head off. Many professional mechanics own the Irwin Extractor Socket Set and really swear by it.

Click the link above to check for the best prices on Amazon for a set. You basically just need to hammer on one of those sockets and then zip it off with your impact wrench or work it off with a ratchet. If the bolt is rusty, super tight, or to just be safe— soak it in penetrating oil and torch it until it gets red hot. You can see from this rounded off bolt that it is both still on there and tight, and also completely messed up from someone probably trying to remove it with vice grips or pliers.

DO NOT try multiple times with vice grips if you are unsuccessful. They are an okay way to attack a rounded off bolt in a tight space if it is relatively small less than 14mm as a general rule and not torqued past say ft-lbs. Anything more and likely the vice grips will slip and cause more problems. The best thing to do when you see a bolt starting to round is to take a break and rethink your strategy.Christmas cookies are on the line here. So, what do you guys use to get a bolt out in a tight spot?

Any way you could post a pic? Long socket wrench, box end wrench, open end wrench, there are several options. Go to, say, the Sears Craftsman web site and see what looks like it might work. As with automobile, year, make, model and specifics of the problem might be of help. Can I assume that it is the oven that is failing to operate? And can I also assume that other burners on the unit work, indicating that both gas pressure and current from the fuse box are present? And definitely a picture would be helpful.

I will try to post a picture when I get home. At work now. Oven is a GE DG Burners and broiler work fine. Igniter is a coil that heats up to ignite the gas. According to my internet travels, when it reaches a certain amperage, the valve to release the gas opens. Unhooked the wires and attempted to connect to an ohmmeter—got no reading from the ohmmeter, so the igniter is a very strong suspect at this point.

And, here is why the techs auto, appliance, tv, computer, teeth, health, etc have specialty tools and charge accordingly. Put on your thinking cap.

If you could invent just such a tool or combination of attatchmentswhat would it look like? Now visit catalogs like Craftsman and Harbor Freight to see if they have something along those lines. Then, also with your thinking cap firmly in place, immagine what a service tech might do when they show up at your house or if you take it to them.

Think along those lines…what more can you take apart to gain access. Take off not only access panels, but entire housings, shells, faces etc. Take out sub-chassis or mounting panels that have the item on itthen remove the item.

My fantasy tool for this would be a ratcheting box wrench with a swivel head. Good idea about removing other panels, parts etc. I thought of this last night and two possibilities came to mind: 1 removing a couple of panels under the coil element and 2 removing the entire burner assembly.

Both appeared to involve removal of a number of bolts, some of which appeared to have not much more clearance than the two in question here. It may come to that, though. They are almost exactly the same size and may be substituted for each other. It will have a box wrench on one end and a open end on the other. These gearwrenches are pretty handy for tight spots. It makes them infinitely more versatile. You need to access these from the back of the stove, then it is easy!

You may have to remove storage container and maybe a plate, but it is the way to go, Merry Xmas.

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